A guide and itinerary for trekking in the Helambu cultural circuit in Nepal Himalayas

For those who harness the mountain spirit, trekking in the Himalayas can be the ultimate dream. The Himalayan mountain range is scattered with some of the most arduous-to-summit peaks in the world. It can quite understandably be a daunting prospect to decide and choose on a circuit for one's maiden trek in these incredible mountains. Somebody like me! So if you are one of those smitten by this mountain range and the Himalayan exploration bug, the Helambu cultural trek could be just the perfect circuit for you. This trek can be put together easily by anybody with a passion and light know-how of trekking. Having a guide is not an absolute essential for this circuit.

This trek was undertaken in late-December and during the Christmas break. The weather was surprisingly pleasant with day temperatures reaching ~25°C. But this is on the lucky side. Be open to snowfall (on the higher elevations of this trek) and cold weather with night-time temperatures dropping below zero.

View of the Manaslu mountain range from the trek

Why trek the Helambu circuit?

The following are my reasoning to trekking the Helambu circuit:

• Circuit length: Typical Himalayan circuits can easily stretch anywhere between 8 to 14 days. On the other hand, the Helambu circuit is a 6-day long trek which can be tailored to make it longer or shorter. This circuit is perfect if you want to indulge in a short-to-medium length trek, clubbed together with a stay and visit to Kathmandu or with other treks in the country. 
• Cultural experience: The trek through Helambu valley takes you through some of the prettiest traditional Sherpa villages and gives you a firsthand look into mountain village life of the native people. The mountain views are breathtakingly interjected with rhododendron bushes that come in to full bloom in spring.
• Easy to moderate difficulty level: The Helambu circuit is easily doable with a little bit of physical conditioning. For instance, I trained 3-5 days a week in the gym to build muscular resistance for going uphill. Of course, this won't be necessary if you sport regularly or hike/trek often. It is highly advisable to know your physical limits before embarking on such a trek.
• Proximity to Kathmandu: This circuit is the closest trek from Kathmandu and makes it exceptionally convenient to start from. The distance from Thamel in downtown Kathmandu to the starting point of this trek is ~19 km. Trekkers on this route usually get dropped off at the starting point by bus or private transfer from their hotel. For adventure seekers wanting to take it a level higher, can opt to start the hike from Kathmandu itself!

Fields and villages along the trail

Trekking essentials for the Helambu circuit 

Trekkers can take it easy with packing as you do not need specialized gear for this trek. There are sufficient mountain lodges along the way that serve food and accommodation. The higher up you go, the more expensive the lodging and food becomes. Therefore, it would be a good idea to count in these factors while drawing up your trek budget. The absolute essentials for this trip from my experience would be:

1. A decent-sized water bottle: Accessing water has got to be one of the most essential aspects on his trek, or any other trek for that matter. Although at the beginning of this trek you will find places to buy bottled water at a decent price, just like food and accommodation the price for water also tends to go up the higher you trek. Therefore, it makes it a nicer option to carry one's own bottle to fill it up with fresh melted-ice water at the village water taps. The locals use this water for consumption and is some of the freshest water I have come across. Of course, safety is paramount and you do not want to contract any water-borne diseases; due to which point #2 is equally important on this trip.
2. Water purification tablets: These tablets are an absolute essential and can be easily found in local pharmacies in Kathmandu. A pack of 20-30 tablets will cost you ~NPR 100.
3. Sleeping bag: A  good quality sleeping bag suitable for temperatures up to -15°C would be a nice addition to your trekking gear. The accommodation along this circuit are very basic and having a sleeping bag with you will ensure you do not freeze away part of your body in the winter temperatures on this trek's higher altitudes.
4. Torch: Treks can stretch into dusk on certain days and villages in the higher parts of this circuit rely solely on solar-powered electricity for lighting. Additionally, power outages are quite common in Nepal and specially on the lower altitudes of this trek. A torch is an absolute essential item. Having an additional backup wouldn't harm either.
5. Insect repellent: Although higher up the mountains bugs are not so commonplace, it is advisable to carry insect/mosquito repellent for those annoying little insects around your bed.
6. Toilet paper: Locals do not have the habit of using toilet paper and buying it during your trek could cost you a pretty penny. Ensure you have this item checked off in your list during packing.
7. Others: Among other items, a good pair of trekking shoes, enough lightweight clothing (depending on the number of days you plan to trek), charging options for your electronic gear (phone, camera, etc.), disinfectant, some basic medication and a first-aid kit are essential things to pack. If you do not have a liking for local Sherpa food, it might be an additional option to carry some tinned food that can be bought in Thamel or Kathmandu proper.

Part of the trekking trail

Note: Mountain lodges have their own solar-powered systems to harness solar energy and owners can be stingy about its usage. Every extra consumption is chargeable (like charging phones or batteries, asking for hot water).

Prerequisites on the Helambu trek

The following prerequisites are absolutely necessary before or during your trek in the Helambu circuit. 

1. Local currency: For all payments along this trek, you will have to rely on hard cash. While foreign currencies do exchange hands with the locals, most prefer to receive Nepalese currency as it is easier for them. Therefore before you start to trek, make a good estimation of your expenses and withdraw local currency from ATMs in the city. It's good to keep in mind that prices of food and lodging goes up the higher you ascend. As an example, a cup of tea will cost you ~NPR 3 at the beginning of the hike, but will be ~NPR 10 at the highest elevation of this trek. In some places of the trek, there is absolutely no road connection meaning that every item or resource has to be carried through the same trekking trail and on the backs of porters up the mountain. 

   

   TIMS card

   
   
2. TIMS card: The TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card is a pre-requisite to embark on all treks in Nepal. It can be obtained from Tourist Service Center, Bhrikutimandap, and Trekking Agencies’ Association Nepal (TAAN) Office in Maligaon and Government registered trekking companies in Kathmandu and Pokhara. They have varying prices for individual and group prices, and nationals from SAARC countries. More information on the TIMS card can be found here (https://timsnepal.com).
3. Updated Trekking Map: Needless to say, an updated and decent resolution trekking map is an absolute prerequisite on this hike. If you are going with a guide, this can be optional.
4. Ticket for Shivapuri National park: This can be bought during the trek or beforehand at tourist offices. Paying at the beginning of the national park is fuss-free and I would recommend doing so. Ticket price is NPR 500.
5. Ticket for Langtang National park: The second ticket on this trek will be for the Langtang National park, which can be purchased on Day 3 in Kutumsang. Not all country nationals have to pay for ticket, so inquire at the ticket office. SAARC nationals pay a different price than other foreign nationals.

Trekking the Helambu circuit

If planning to start your trek from Sundarijal, it is advisable to get a transfer to this point from your hotel by car. Buses are an option as well, although there are no fixed time table for buses to this point. Most hotels offer free transfer if they are in the vicinity of Sundarijal. It is important to know that the Helambu trek, as well as the villages along the way, were deeply ravaged during the 2015 earthquakes. Large parts of the trek were unreachable for quite some time and accommodations suffered severe damages. While most of it has been rebuilt, certain villages still bear testimony to this huge natural calamity.

Sights like these reminds of the ravaging 2015 earthquakes

Day 1: Sundarijal to Pati Bhanjyang

The trek from Sundarijal begins with a soft upward ascent through cobbled rocky stairs, cutting through the backyards of the locals and next to some houses. It is around this trail that you have to pay for a ticket to the Shivapuri National Park (~NPR 500) that forms part of the Helambu circuit trek. The trek leads to the village of Mulkharka (1855m) and builds up in altitude further to the pass at Borlang Bhanjyang (2430m), which will be the highest point of Day 1. From here the trail heads right through pristine mountain views to curve away in a pleasant descent to Chisopani (2165m). The village of Chisopani constitutes an army camp, several houses and lodging. For some trekkers, the village forms the first pit stop on this trek. The accommodation at Chisopani are some of the most-equipped to be found in this trek. 

Entering Shivapuri National Park

Further from Chisopani, a comfortable descent takes you through Majuwa, to the smaller mountain village of Pati Bhanjyang (1830m) where a newly rebuilt school and some strewn houses greeted us with the setting evening sun. The accommodation at Pati Bhanjyang are much modest compared to Chisopani. Two boarding teachers of the school happily offered empty school rooms for an overnight stay, although there were other accommodation in the village. Inquiring for food options around the little village brought several options of a Dal-bhat (the Nepalese staple of lentil soup, rice and some veggies) meal. A scrumptious hot meal of fried potatoes, lentil soup and rice ensured a full belly and a warmly nourished soul. 

Stunning mountain views

As mentioned before, this trip was made in late-December, when it's low-tourist season. Winters at >3000m can get really cold and chilly at night. Although during the day the sun shone brightly on almost all days of this trek, the night temperatures tend to drop quite a bit. Day clothing gear consisted mainly a T-shirt and hike pants.

Day 2: Pati Bhanjyang to Golphu Bhanjyang

Start early on Day 2 through stunning mountain sunrise views and meander your way through the villages of Tholubhanjyang (2056m) and Chipling (2170m). Either of these villages can be a stop for a midday break, brunch or lunch depending on your time of arrival. Further northward from Chipling, through beautiful fields and forests you will arrive at the mountain village of Thotungdanda or Thotung (2207m). From Thotungdanda until the end of the trek on Day 2, you will find several lodges strewn along the way. You can hang your boots in any of these places and spend the night if not going further on Day 2. Further north from Thotungdanda, across mountain greenery and local sights, you will arrive at Golphu Bhanjyang (2130m). Quite a few new lodges have cropped up in the recent past since the earthquakes of 2015. Local hosts happily let you take a look at their accommodation before you decide on your place of stay.

Pristine mountain views

A road turning to the right from this village leads all the way to Kathmandu. Bus schedules can be inquired with the locals, who use this passage frequently for travelling to the capital. Early next morning on Day 3, the sight of school children and locals hurriedly making their way to catch the sole bus of the morning greeted the trekkers.

Sunset views

Day 3: Golphu Bhanjyang to Tharepati

Day 3 will take you to the highest elevation of this trek at Tharepati. With staggeringly beautiful views northward from Golphu Bhanjyang, walk through more fields and meadows to the village of Kutumsang (2470m) where you will have to pay for entry into the Langtang National park (some may be exempt from entry fee - see 'Prerequisites on the Helambu Trek'). Kutumsang offers a few options for a quick break (tea and breakfast) and stunning mountain photography. I would advise using a good break at this point as the trail forward gets increasingly gruelling and steep, and you will cross into the 3000m elevation point. 

A gauge of the winter temperatures: a little frozen stream along the way to Tharepati

Continue north on a very steep path, but through breathtaking views of Himalayan paradise while passing through sparsely speckled uninhabited farmlands. Coursing through Panghu and Mere Danda, brings you to the quaint little village of Mangengoth (3420m). Perched on top of a mountain, Mangengoth offers lunch possibilities along with exceedingly fantastic mountain views. A mother-father-daughter trio working on their 'new' house were happy to see a few trekkers on a December afternoon. We stopped for a heartwarming meal of Shurpa (a light soup with vegetables) at their lodge and continued on the ascending and descending terrain through Dobhate and Saune. Another piece of steep climb leads to the ridge and then to Tharepati (3690m). The trail further north goes to form the Gosainkund trek, which is a much more demanding trek compared to Helambu. Tharepati offers newly rebuilt 2-person basic accommodation with shared WC. The nights were the coldest on this trek and your sleeping bag will be a blessing here.

A Chorten seen en route Tharepati

Day 4: Tharepati to Melamchighyang (to Tarkeghyang or Thimbu)

Start early from Tharepati on your continuous 1160m descent to the Sherpa village of Melamchighyang (2530m). The sights are punctuated by numerous Oak trees and Rhododendron bushes growing abundantly on the mountain face. In spring, the Rhododendrons bloom to give a pinkish-red tint to the entire area. This descent takes a total of ~3h. 

The sharp 1160m descent from Tharepati

A hanging wooden bridge across gushing melted ice water underneath leads you in to the village of Melamchighyang. The village offers many possibilities of lodging with a larger village and farming grounds. Trekkers can choose to sleep here or continue further (as in our case). For the ones staying in Melamchighyang, choose between a local walk around the village or sit with a cup of tea while watching the setting sun painting an orange hue on the little perched village of Tarkeghyang in the distance (which is the hike destination for next day!!)

Crossing the hanging bridge on the way to Melamchighyang

Note: The below two options can be attempted either on Day 4 (afternoon) or Day 5. I continued with 'Option 2' on Day 4.

Option 1: Melamchighyang to Tarkeghyang 

Trek onward from Melamchighyang initially on a descent across the mountain face. Go across the suspension bridge and through the villages of Nakotegaon and Toccham to arrive at Tarkeghyang (2600m). Settled on the side and part of a higher mountain, Tarkeghyang is a little Sherpa village nestled perfectly amid the luscious greenery and wilderness. 

Winding mountain roads connecting little villages. They are lifelines for locals to get food and other supplies from far-off Kathmandu.

Option 2: Melamchighyang to Thimbu

From Melamchighyang it is possible to directly trek to Thimbu, the end point of this trek. The Helambu trail will take you through the village of Kakani (2070m) to Thimbu (1580m). The earthquake has damaged much of the trekking trail and roads here. A friendly young guide happily took a few extra trekkers along through a route explained by the locals to finally arrive in Thimbu. This descent was one of the most breathtaking routes with beautiful and high waterfalls interjecting the entire path. Day 4 of this hike was a total of 12 hours since it started at Tharepati. It is definitely challenging and therefore a good option would be to break it in to 2 days if feasible for your itinerary.

Waterfalls along the trek

Being one of the larger villages on this trail, Thimbu has quite a few lodges and eating places. Buses regularly (almost hourly) ply from here to Kathmandu with the earliest bus departing at about 5 AM. The journey by bus to Kathmandu can be excruciatingly long as the roads are not in the best of shape (additionally ravaged by the earthquake). This journey can last 6-7 hours depending on the number of people taking the bus. But eventually you will make it to your destination!