A road trip through the Black forest (Schwarzwald) in Germany | A week in the Schwarzwald

The popular Black forest of Germany, called so due to the thick canopy of evergreen conifers, is a stretch of 160 km forested landscape with petite villages and pristine nature that makes for one of the most ideal road trip and hike destinations. Situated along the southwestern part of Germany, bordering France to the west and Switzerland to the south, the oblong-shaped Black forest features some of the highest peaks and waterfalls in the country. Several attractions ranging from diverse nature areas to typical Schwarzwalder villages, spas and the very famous cuckoo clocks, speckle the Black forest making it one of the most-visited places in Germany.

How to travel in the Black Forest?

The Black forest is strategically located close to several major towns with a good train network. Although this trip had been concluded primarily by car, it is also possible to go from town to town using public transport. Needless to say, a private vehicle gives you the freedom and flexibility to make stops in more picturesque locations, which is not always feasible when traveling by train or bus. Strasbourg, Stuttgart and Freiburg are the nearest big cities with excellent train connections which make for good starting points to travel in the Black forest. It's ideal to travel from village to village in the Schwarzwald to make the most out of the breathtaking scenery and if planning to hike in the area. All small towns and villages have sufficient lodging options, although during peak season it's advisable to book your accommodation beforehand. The Schwarzwald region thrives on tourism, so most businesses go out of business during low season (especially restaurants and cafes).

Views of mountains submerged in clouds in the heart of the Black forest

An itinerary for traveling in the Black Forest of Germany

Baden-Baden 

The spa town of Baden-Baden is one of the larger southwestern towns in the Schwarzwald. Driving all the way from Leuven in Belgium, Baden-Baden made for the perfect stop to kick-start our Black Forest adventure. The mountainous scenery, a meandering river, and a cute Altstadt (old town), Baden-Baden is a popular town known for its spas and cultural heritage. Take a walk along the promenade next to the river Oos, that gently flows through town. Make sure to pass by the 19th century Trinkhalle (pump house) decorated with frescoes and a water fountain and the surrounding gardens. It used to be the spa's main building and is quite an architectural masterpiece. There are close-by hiking trails originating from Baden-Baden, such as the Waldsee Baden-Baden hiking area and Korbmattfelsen observation deck, that make for interesting stops to nature-gaze.

The river Oos meandering through Baden-Baden

Ottenhofen im Schwarzwald & the Edelfrauengrab waterfalls

Once you have made your first acquaintance in the Black Forest, it's time to dive deep into the heart of this mountainous marvel. Arrive in the sleepy little town of Ottenhofen from where you can do an enjoyable circular hike to the nearby Edelfrauengrab waterfalls, which is a series of little water cascades in the Black forest that goes up to 44 meters in height. 

Scenery in the outskirts of Ottenhofen following the hiking trail towards the Edelfrauengrab waterfalls

The name Edelfrauengrab translates to "grave of the noblewoman" and legend goes that during the time of the Crusades, when the Knight Wolf von Bosentein was at war, his wife committed adultery and gave birth to seven children. In fear of being caught for her infidelity, she asked her servant to drown the children in the castle moat. However, the servant was discovered by the knight before he could carry out his order, who then revealed the truth to the knight. It's beside the cascade of these waterfalls that the unfaithful noblewoman is said to have met her violent end.

Part of the cascade of the Edelfrauengrab waterfalls

For adventurous hikers, go all the way up to the Karlsruher Grat (Karlsruhe ridge) in the Gottschlag valley, ascending to a total height of 500m. The hiking trail leads back to Ottenhofen town. It's a moderate to difficult hike along steep cliff faces, therefore allow sufficient time to complete the whole circuit (~12 km). The hike trail is well-marked and in autumn was not as busy with hikers. The water volume was still quite strong, so beware of slippery paths. Good hiking boots are strongly recommended. Ottenhofen town itself is quaint and small, and can be explored at the beginning or end of the hike.

Viewpoint of Herrenschrofen

The viewpoint of Herrenschrofen (Aussichtsfelsen Herrenschrofen) offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys beneath, making it an ideal spot for a sandwich lunch-break!

Allerheiligen waterfalls & Oppenau

Start the next morning towards the Allerheiligen or All Saints waterfalls at the western edge of the Schwarzwald national park from Ottenhofen. These waterfalls are about 12 km away from Edelfrauengrab and can make for an interesting but challenging hike! The Allerheiligen waterfalls are known to be one of the highest (90m) and most breathtaking waterfalls in Germany. Wooden stairs take you up or down beside the whole stretch of the waterfalls, and a visit is absolutely recommended for nature lovers. A ticket is not required to enter the waterfall area. It is accessible by public transport and car parking is available at the entrance. 

The Allerheiligen waterfalls in the Black forest

Stop by the close-by ruins of the Allerheiligen abbey which is an absolute highlight in the area. A trip further to the town of Oppenau is recommended which is a petite little Schwarzwalder gem with a population of 4,700 inhabitants. Settle down for a quick lunch or elaborate dinner in the center of Oppenau and gorge on some locally made Spaetzle (German noodles) with wild mushrooms and cheese!

Locally made delicious Spaetzle

Gengenbach and Dorotheenhutte mouth-blown glass factory

Gengenbach makes for a quick worthwhile stop when traveling south in the Black forest. The Altstadt feels like a page straight out of a fairy tale with old-style and charming half-timbered houses. The town of Gengenbach is the starting point for several hikes for both pilgrimage and regular hiking routes. A walk around town is definitely recommended, which gives visitors a good taste of the towers, gates, corners, alleys and half-timbered houses for as far as the eye can see! 

Half-timbered houses and clock tower in Gengenbach town

You can call it a day in Gengenbach or head south-east towards Wolfach where the Dorotheenhutte glass factory is located. Dorotheenhutte is one of the last mouth-blown glass factory that still manufactures glass using the age-old method. Take a tour around the factory to see how skilled glass-blowers create vases, decorative pieces, chalices and other items by blowing molten glass at high temperatures. It's fascinating to witness this dying artistry kept still alive in the heart of the Schwarzwald. The adjacent factory shop sells a variety of stunning glass objects made locally.

Glass products made in the Dorotheenhutte glass factory in the Black forest

House of the 1000 Cuckoo Clocks in Triberg

Get on to the scenic Schwarzwaldbahn (Black forest motorway) from Wolfach and head south towards Triberg with an absolutely essential stop in the House of the 1000 Cuckoo Clocks. Even if not buying anything, a visit to the shop of the cuckoo clocks is highly recommended when in the area. The shop displays wooden cuckoo clocks made by local village craftsmen using timber from the Black forest trees. The finished products are undoubtedly some of the most intricate pieces of craftsmanship you will have ever seen. The clocks comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, styles and budgets. Clocks range from little table-top pieces to giant hallway cabinets, all of which are equally beautiful. 

Idyllic setting of the House of 1000 Clocks next to a mountain stream

Triberg waterfalls & Black forest cake

The Triberg waterfalls in the Baden-Wurttemburg region of the Black forest are one of the tallest waterfalls in all of Germany. The northern entrance to the park is a short downhill hike from the parking area. You walk next to the less impressive upper part of the waterfalls until the waterfall entrance gate, where a ticket counter sells tickets to access the main falls. If visiting Triberg waterfalls after the Edelfrauengrab waterfalls, you will sense the similarity in the two cascades. A hiking trail goes around the cascade for which some level of fitness is required or you can choose to make the moderately steep hike back to the parking area after visiting the falls. 

Grazing deers in mountain villages of the Black forest

Once sufficiently hiked around the strenuous tracks, head to any nearby cafe and plop down for some coffee and a slice of the renowned Schwarzwalder kirschtorte (Black forest cake). The famous cake is made with slices of chocolate sponge cake layered with whipped sahne (fresh cream) and preserved cherries. However, it is to be noted that the cake is not named after the Black forest but rather after the distilled cherry liquor (Kirschwasser) used in the cake which is a specialty of the Schwarzwalder region. 

Freiburg im Breisgau

The southwest town of Freiburg is a vibrant medieval town which is also one of the larger towns in the Black forest region. A hike around Freiburg and its surrounding packs scenic landscapes of the Black forest. Slightly southeast are the two lakes, Titisee and Schluchsee, which makes for interesting stops when passing by Freiburg or if looking for short day trip destinations. These regions are very popular with tourists and can get crowded in high season.

Hiking trails through the heart of the Black forest